Some Great Days Out: Sumidero Canyon and Montebello Lakes

Another tour that I really enjoyed took us to the town of Chiapa de Corzo, from where we took a speedboat along the Grijalva River to visit the Sumidero Canyon. The river has not always been navegable. It has only been possible to visit the Canyon by boat since 1981. In the same year it was converted into a protected area and named a National Park. You can also view the Canyon by land from a series of look out points. The canyon is so important to the people of Chiapas that it forms the base of the state´s Coat of Arms.

The entrance to the canyon lies about 15km from where you take the speedboat, and just before you get to this entrance, in the centre of the left-hand wall, is a small alcolve with a stalactite in the shape of a sea horse, which we stopped to photograph. We also stopped a few more times to see other things of interest, the most fantastic of which had to be the waterfall known as the Christmas Tree. The water falls over a formation of rocks covered with moss that look exactly like a Christmas Tree. Our driver took us right underneath it to feel the spray...it was very refreshing on such a hot day :)

Our journey took us along just 42km of the Grijalva River (a total of 84km there and back) with a journey time of just under two hours. Upon entering the Canyon the walls on either side measure 200m high, the tallest point along the way being a staggering 1000m. The river´s deepest point (within the limits of the Canyon) measures 250m.

At the end of the first 42km before making our way back we got to see a huge hydroelectric dam (the biggest of four which can be found along this river), which is Mexico´s biggest source of energy production. This dam is also able to export electricity throughout Central America. The dam was opened in 1981, which helped to make the river navegable as it calmed the rapids which had been present in the river prior to its opening. On the way back to the dock we stopped just once to photograph some crocodiles sunbathing on the river bank and then it was back to the centre of Chiapa de Corzo to spend a bit of time before heading back to San Cristóbal.

Chiapa de Corzo was founded in 1528 when Diego de Mazariegos successfully conquered the area with the Spanish. It is said that several of the local indigenous people threw themselves into the Sumidero Canyon, preferring death to a life of slavery under the new Spanish rulers. In the main square is a beautiful fountain, built by the Spanish some time after founding the town. Unfortunately we did not get to explore much more as we only had 45 minutes there, but what we did see we enjoyed all the same.

Our third and final tour from San Cristóbal took us to three different places: firstly to some caves at a place called Rancho Nuevo, secondly to Chiflon Falls, a nature reserve with several waterfalls, and finally to the Montebello Lakes, which, as the names suggests, is an area with several lakes of varying colours. We didn´t enjoy this tour as much as the others as it lasted the entire day with a lot of driving involved (we spent the majority of the day inside the minibus), but most of what we saw that day was very beautiful and Vic got to have a swim in one of the lakes, so although tiring, it was worthwhile.

By far the most disappointing part of the day was the visit to the caves. The stalactites and stalagmites were remarkable but in general it was too dark and too wet inside the caves, making it difficult to get any photos and also making it dangerous to walk. Vic and I almost slipped a couple of times so we were relieved to get back out into the sunshine again :)

Next it was an hour and a half´s drive to the nature reserve of Chiflon Falls. The visit here involved a thirty-five minute climb (of more than 500 stairs) through the forest alongside a river, with several waterfalls to admire along the way. At the summit you can cool down in the vast spray of the reserve´s tallest waterfall called El Velo de Novia (bridal veil falls in English), approximately 120m high. Although not an easy climb due to the excessive heat and humidity (not to mention all those stairs), we both really enjoyed this stop :)

Our final port of call was the Montebello Lakes, a further two hours away (we were also starving by this point not yet having had an opportunity to get any lunch). This area of Mexico comprises a total of 60 lakes of different sizes and colours. I can no longer remember the name of the first one we stopped at, but there is a photo of Vic in front of it above, and on the opposite side of the lake, approximately half way up, is the border with Guatemala. (I think some of the Montebello Lakes are actually situated in Guatemala).

The next lake we went to was Lake Pojoj, and this is where we finally got something to eat, although only something small as there was nothing hugely appealing on offer :) There is a small island in the middle of this lake and to get across you can either go by kayak or on a raft made of what look like narrow tree trunks, held together with rope. (They don´t use motors to avoid polluting the crystal clear water). We chose to go by raft, which we shared with a local family and our driver. It didn´t occur to us until a few minutes into the journey that we should probably help with the rowing, as we were quite a lot of people for one person alone :) Vic and I got to have a go at rowing on the return journey (see photo below). The island is tiny with a small orchid garden and people usually come here in order to go swimming. Unfortunately I didn´t have my swimming things with me, and I refused to go in in just my underwear (other people did!), so Vic was the only one of us who got to enjoy the refreshingly cool water. I took photos instead :) From the other side of the island to where you can go swimming, if you shout, you get a really great echo. I took a video of Vic doing this, but you can´t hear the echo all that well so I´ve decided to not put it on here for the moment.

Finally, before making the three-hour journey back to San Cristóbal, we stopped off to see three more lakes, which together with another two make up the so-called Coloured Lakes, which range in colour from midnight blue to emerald green. The three we got to see were called Encantada (Enchanted), which was a kind of olive green, Ensueño (Dream), which was a greeny turquoise, and Esmeralda (Emerald), which, funnily enough, was an emerald green. They were all truly beautiful and well worth the visit. It´s just a shame that we had such a long drive back. Once we arrived in San Cristóbal there was only one thing on our minds: dinner :) I can´t remember what we ended up having, but if this was the night we unfortunately ended up in the awful italian restaurant, this day really was the worst day for food!!!